1. Pull the drain plugs and remove all water from the hull. At this point you may also want to wash your engine compartment and outer hull. Make sure to get ALL the water out of the hull. Any water left inside the engine compartment will cause condensation and corrosion on your engine.
2. If you ride in salt water. Flush your watercrafts cooling system with Salt-Away. This prevents internal engine corrosion.
3. Add Sta-Bil Fuel Stabilizer to your watercrafts fuel tank.
4. Fog the engine with marine grade engine fogging oil. Start the engine and spray the fogging oil into the carburetor. Running the engine at this point will also circulate the stabilized fuel into the fuel lines and carburetors. Fog for 10-15 seconds and shut the engine down. Turn your fuel switch to the OFF position.
5. Remove the driveline cover and grease all fittings on the driveline with a grease gun. Re-install your driveline cover.
6. If you own a Sea-Doo, now is the time to change your pump oil. It is better to do when winterizing rather than in the spring. If any water has entered the pump oil you don t want it sitting in there all winter and ruining your pump bearings. To do this, disconnect your steering cable, trim cable, and reverse cable. Next remove the steering and exit nozzles. Then remove the pump cone. Let all of the old oil drain out. Reinstall the pump cone (make sure to inspect the O-ring and seal it with Loctite 518 or equivalent). Refill the pump cone through the filler hole (set screw) with Sea-Doo Pump Oil or equivalent synthetic gear lube.
7. At this point, if you store your area where the temperature will drop below freezing, add 50/50 water-antifreeze mix to the cooling system. Disconnect the water in-line from the cylinder head. Connect a hose with a funnel on the other end. Pour in antifreeze until it comes out the outlet of the cooling system. Make sure the antifreeze you use is aluminum safe. Most newer antifreeze brands are.
8. Lube all of your cables, spray down your pump, and lube your steering system with silicon spray lube.
9. Spray down your engine with silicon spray lube. A light coating is all you need to protect it from corrosion.
10. Make any notes of problems that should be addressed before you go riding next spring.
Procedure for Boat Winterization.
Winterization is necessary in colder climates, where freezing is possible. If you are in a warm climate, and your ski is going to be stored for a long period, you should also consider this procedure.
The following procedure is for the older models (657, 587 engine), but may also apply to the newer skis (787, 947). I’ll be updating it soon so it properly covers most models. If you aren’t sure about this procedure, consult the service manual for your year ski to make sure the following procedure will work for you.
Wire cutters, or knife
Medium size funnel
Hose Pincher (Sea Doo p/n 295000076)
1 gallon – Antifreeze mix (50/50 or as recommended)
1. Estimate the quantity of fuel in your tank, and add Fuel Stabilizer as recommended in the directions on the container.
2. Remove the air silencer cover on top of the carb(s)(black plastic on newer skis, blue alum. on older ones).
3. Attach the flush fitting to the connector on the ski, and start the engine. Immediately turn water on, and bring engine up to approx. 3000 rpm (half throttle). Spray Sea Doo Lube into the carb opening(s) for 30 sec., then shut fuel valve off. Continue to spray Lube for another 30 sec. As engine starts to die, make sure to turn water off immediately, to avoid engine damage. (reminder – never run engine longer than 5 minutes, or jet pump bearing damage will occur).
4. Remove the spark plugs, placing the plug wires on the grounding terminals, and spray some Sea Doo Lube into the cylinders. Crank the engine over a few revs to distribute the Lube onto the cylinders. Reinstall spark plugs.
5. Jet pump oil should be changed at this point. See the Pump Oil Change section.
6. Seal (if your ski has the type which requires lubrication) and PTO should be greased (this procedure is on the way).
7. Locate the main water lines where they attach to the jet pump and exhaust fitting. The inlet hose runs from the pump and splits into two hoses and connects to the pipe on most models. The outlet hose typically runs from the head to the exhaust fitting. The third hose is a drain hose (clear, usually) that runs from under the exhaust manifold to the exhaust fitting on most models. Remove these hoses where they connect to the pump and the exhaust outlet at the rear of the engine compartment. Tie these hoses so that the ends are above the top of the engine.
8. On the water inlet hose, follow it to the pipe and note where it splits and connects in two places. Install a hose pincher on the smaller hose that connects under the pipe (closest hose to engine). This keeps antifreeze from entering the cylinders, so don’t skip this step !
9. Locate the water inlet hose (the one that was connected to pump), and insert the funnel into the end of it. Pour antifreeze mix into the funnel slowly until you can see antifreeze mix rise above the top of the engine in clear hose.
10. Leave these lines tied for the winter (if they are reattached, the mix will drain out).
11. An additional procedure that is recommended, is to drain the muffler (located behind the pipe). this involves removing the inlet and outlet exhaust hoses. Next, you need to remove the tie-down strap. Remove the muffler, and pour out any water. Reinstall the muffler in the reverse order.
12. Drain and dry the engine compartment thoroughly. Wipe any remaining water off the engine, and spray engine, and any exposed metal parts with Sea Doo Lube. Be sure to spray the carb and cable attachments.